Like the early chapters of Towers, the first couple of chapters of Return are easily my least favourite, dealing as they do with the extremely un-hobbitty affairs of Rohan and Gondor.
I always love the Field of Cormallen: Tolkien writes joy very well, and despite the sadness that comes after it I think this is the chapter that shows best of all just how significant an evil Sauron was to the people of Middle-earth.
And I even loved the Scouring of the Shire towards the end, even if the book does trickle on for rather a long time after its actual climax.
Ups and downs, ups and downs. The books are different every time I read them. And some of the bits in The Two Towers were very comforting to read in the aftermath of the US election especially.